Naslov
Construction of Accademic Gowns for Honorable Officials of the University of Zagreb, Croatia

Autori
Dragčević, Zvonko ; Bogović, Slavica ; Prpić, Željko ; Bakran, Tomislav

Vrsta, podvrsta i kategorija rada
Sažeci sa skupova, sažetak, znanstveni

Izvornik
Book of Abstracts of the International Textile Clothing & Design Conference, Magic World of Textiles / Dragčević, Zvonko - Zagreb : Tekstilno-tehnološki fakultet Sveučilišta u Zagrebu, 2002

Skup
Magic World of Textiles

Mjesto i datum
Dubrovnik, Hrvatska, 06.10.2002. - 09.10.2002

Vrsta sudjelovanja
Poster

Vrsta recenzije
Međunarodna recenzija

Ključne riječi
academic gowns; Croatian ornamental braid; construction and grading; embroidery

Sažetak
Based on the fashion idea and creation of academic gowns for honourable officials of the University of Zagreb (rector, vice-rector, dean and vice-dean), by V. M. Potočić, M. Sc., Department of Clothing Technology has realised the project and manufactured academic gowns for particular officials. The project is completed and the gowns are already used in formal occasions of promoting students and presenting the University and its member-faculties. It asks for a versatile scientific approach to correct choice of fabrics, cutting pattern and model selection, embroidery designing, etc. Precise and adequate procedure in each of the phases guarantees the manufacture of decent, formal and respectable gowns. Fabric properties are tested in the process of fabric selection, following the HRN method (thickness, surface mass, bending rigidity, crease angle), while the weave type, density by warp and weft, as well as yarn fineness, are determined employing fabric decomposition. Sewability parameters are determined using contemporary measuring equipment intended for objective evaluation of textile fabrics (FAST and KES). These tests of wearability, sewability and formal appearance indicate the selection of basic fabric &#8211 ; Cordial, manufactured by Varteks, Varaždin, of 100% pure wool raw material content. Basic cut is made following the fashion idea and sketch for the gowns, in garment size 50, which is tested and used as a basic size for cutting pattern grading. Grading is done on the computerised system &#8220 ; Lectra Systemes&#8221 ; , for a sequence of garment sizes of various statures, gender and bodily constitution type. Cutting patterns for each garment size are incorporated, for the purpose of calculating precise fabric consumption, with the cutting pattern utilisation of 83%. The gowns are decorated with ornamental braids of the recognisable motif, characteristic for Croatian history, manufactured in machine embroidery technique.

Izvorni jezik
Engleski

Znanstvena područja
Tekstilna tehnologija

POVEZANOST RADA