Naslov
Schiavonetto: Clothing term and clothing item at the end of the 16th century

Autori
Simončič, Katarina Nina

Vrsta, podvrsta i kategorija rada
Sažeci sa skupova, sažetak, znanstveni

Izvornik
How Do We Study Objects? – Analyses in Artefact Studies. Helsinki, Finska / - , 2014

Skup
International conference: How Do We Study Objects? – Analyses in Artefact Studies

Mjesto i datum
Helsinki, Finska, 08.05.2014. - 09.05.2014

Vrsta sudjelovanja
Predavanje

Vrsta recenzije
Međunarodna recenzija

Ključne riječi
schiavonetto; 16th century; fashion; Dalmatia; Venice; fabrics; Cesare Vecellio

Sažetak
The clothing term schiavonetto appeared in archival records at the end of the 16th century. Its specific meaning differs from term camicie, chemise and smock. Lynne Lawner (1987), Carole Collier Frick (2002) and Jill Condra (2008) described Schiavonetto as a light, airy silk or linen dress with wide neck opening lengthwise decorated with stripes made in Dalmatia. This paper will try to show the steps and course of research with goal to clarify the exact meaning of the term schiavonetto. Instead of using clothing or textile artifact as basis for research, the first step that opened several approaches of analysis was visual display by Cesare Vecellio from the book Habiti degli Antichi et Moderni, Venice (Zenaro), 1590. On display „A Venetian bleaching her hair” he described in Italian and Latin, the specific type of garment called schiavonetto from Dalmatia (part of Croatia). A similar garment can be seen on women in the art works of certain Italian amd German painters. The information from Vecellio's costume book led to the second step of research, analysis of archival build of inventory list of Dalmatian area (Zadar, Dubrovnik) at the end of the 16th century. Sources found were compared to Venetian sources from the end of the 16th century and they confirmed certain stylistic specifics of schiavonetto from the ordinary forms of long shirts called camicie also known as chemise. Toponym schiavonetto shows the influence of Croatian designers on the clothing culture of Italy. Schiavonia is an old Italian name used in 16th century for part of today’s Croatia. Clothing items from Schiavonie (Croatia) were known as schiavina, alla schavonesca and referred to certain fabrics, forms, and wearing style. Third step of research was analysis of object forms and ornaments on several preserved clothing artifact s that are located in different museums. Stylistic analysis of artifacts compared with archival records that mentioned specific forms/cuts and ornaments used on schiavonetto clearly show distinct difference from other similar clothing items (chemise). The analysis of ornaments and cuts on preserved clothing artifacts also showed if clothing items are schiavonetto or its derivatives. For better understanding the implementation of schiavonetto in fashion on the West in the 16th century, fourth step of research was analysis of production and trading of schiavonetto. It also showed its relation with Dalmatia and its assimilation into cities of Venice.

Izvorni jezik
Engleski

Znanstvena područja
Etnologija i antropologija

POVEZANOST RADA