Naslov
Influence of ethno style on Croatian Fashion in Clothing in the Period of Art Nouveau

Autori
Simončič, Katarina Nina

Vrsta, podvrsta i kategorija rada
Poglavlja u knjigama, znanstveni

Knjiga
From Traditional Attire to Modern Dress: Modes of Identification, Modes of Recognition in the Balkans (XVIth-XXth Centuries)

Urednik/ci
Constanţa Vintilă- Ghiţulescu

Izdavač
Cambridge Scholars Publishing

Grad
Cambridge

Godina
2011

Raspon stranica
212-232

ISBN
978-1-4438-3186-4

Ključne riječi
Art Nouveau, fashion, anti-fashion, Salamon Berger, peripheral fashion, Croatian Textile

Sažetak
Subject of this research is culture of clothing in Croatia at the turn of the 20th century, characterized by the art style of the period: Art Nouveau. The objective is to determine stylistic influences recorded in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, in late 19th and early 20th centuries. Influences coming from Vienna and Paris were accepted in the fashionable Zagreb, however, a rich cultural life in the capital in a specific historical moment when national awareness was being raised had resulted in an indigenous product: fashion fabrics with ethnic Croatian prints and patterns. Synthesis of anti-fashion elements of ethnic clothing and fashion itself was recorded both in Croatian and foreign newspapers of the time. Considering the popularity of oriental style in the world, which became in style after Diaghileff's Russian Ballet had performed in Paris, Salamon Berger, a Croatian merchant, successfully placed domestic fabrics with ethnic elements at Madame Paquin's in Paris, and then in Berlin, Vienna and London. In this way, Croatia has left its modest mark on the fashion scene at the turn of the 20th century. This paper will deal with the preserved fashion clothing objects of Art Nouveau and fashion fabrics with ethnic patterns. The research is based on art analysis of clothing objects located in Zagreb museums and analysis of photographs, while other references are from Croatian fashion journalism from the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century, as well as archive records.

Izvorni jezik
Engleski

Znanstvena područja
Povijest umjetnosti

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