ࡱ> 130q`RKbjbjqPqP &O::TD|&(4&6&6&6&6&6&6&$'h*Z&!Z&;{&,",","DR4&,"4&,",":",h",# `<6f?DL# #&0&"# **,#*,#T,"CZ&Z&"& Improving THE modification of technical flax fibres M. Andrassy, E. Pezelj, R. urina Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Pierottijeva 6, HR- 10000 Zagreb, Croatia Introduction Obtaining fine flax fibres from technical ones presents a number of problems and various, more or less, acceptable processes of cottonization have been developed. Flax cottonization is based on the ability of the technical fibre to be split to the level of elementary fibres, which is closely connected with the noncellulosic components (pectin). Another problem is how to obtain a satisfactory target degree of whiteness of the flax fibres. Because of a relatively high content of noncellulosic matter in technical flax fibres, they are frequently subjected to various combined chemical treatments of bleaching, applied in a number of steps [1]. Ultrasound causes cottonization by weakening the bonds between elementary fibres in a technical fibre [2]. If the fibres are exposed to ultrasound in a bleaching solution, bleaching can be achieved simultaneously with cottonization. Experimental Tests were performed on technical flax fibre samples obtained from plants grown from the seed sort Jitka and Texa (Agritec, Czech Republic), Viola (Van de Bilt Zaden, Netherlands) as well as Merkur and Bonet (Sempra, Czech Republic). Two sets of bleaching treatments were performed, one without and the other with application of ultrasound. Technical flax fibres where treated with ultrasound in a bleaching bath as given in Tab. 1. The including bleaching and cottonization lasted for 30 min. ApparatusThe ultrasound unit SONIS 4 (ISKRA, Kranj, Slovenia), ultrasound frequency 30 kHzBleaching solution compositionH2O2 (31,3 %) NaOH (32%) TC stabiliser GBU N 20 ml / l 12 ml / l 4 g / l Kemonecer NI wetting agent pH bath ratio 1 g / l 10.5 11.5 1 : 10 Temperature of the bleaching and cottonization treatments, oC60, 85, 95Tab.1 Conditions of bleaching and cottonization Tab. 2 Efficiency of the flax fibre treatment was determined using the following parameters: ParametersMeasurements and methodsCalculusDegree of cottonization, DC, (the measure of the fibre ability to split)microscopic (on the fibre cross section)DC= EMBED Equation.3  EMBED Equation.3 (%(NBF - number of fibre groups TNF total number of fibresColour and lustre (expressed as yellowness) DIN 6167, DATA COLOR SF 600 PLUS CT UVthe yellowness is calculated by measuring tristimulus values (x, y, z), characteristic for each colour.Results and discussion The single-bath process of bleaching and cottonization result in positive effects of the ultrasound during cottonization, reduced energy consumption and amount of chemicals used and shorter duration of the treatment. Results of determining degree of cottonization (Tab. 3) show that the efficiency of cottonization is considerably increased whit elevated temperature of the treatment bath. Table 3. Results of determining cottonization Treatment with ultrasound 30 minuntreated60oC85oC90oCJitka9,24,33,32,7Viola8,83,92,92,9Texa11,34,44,13,9Merkur13,34,94,74,5Bonet12,84,74,64,6 Untreated samples of technical flax were relatively dark, in brown hues, with almost no lustre. Whiteness in the conventional sense of the word was not achieved, such that is characteristic for white textiles, the effects of bleaching and lustre achieved were objectively evaluated using conventional spectrophotometric measurements of whiteness. The results of measuring degree of whiteness obtained, according to A. Berger, were not adequate for monitoring bleaching effects and are not presented here. The results of determining yellowness are shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 1. Results of determining yellowness  Single-bath bleaching process makes fibre samples considerably lighter, which is reflected as lower yellowness values. Yellowness degree is reduced with elevated bath temperature. Conclusions The investigation results indicate not only an ecologically favourable cottonization but also positive effects of the ultrasound during cottonization and bleaching. The process of ultrasound cottonization has proved to be highly appropriate. In practical work, it can be result in reduced energy consumption and amount of chemicals used and shorter treatment duration. It is important to note that fibres of extraordinary aesthetic characteristics were obtained, of soft beige colour, noble lustre and high softness, besides the effects of cottonization and bleaching achieved. A single-bath treatment, applying ultrasound, at the temperature of 85oC and duration of 30 min, is recommended as optimal. References: [1] Helen H. Epps, Danny E. Akin, Jonn A. Foulk, Roy B. Dodd: Color of Enzyme-Retted Flax Fibres affected by Processing Cleaning and Cottonizing, Textile Res. 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