engleski

Dyeing behaviour of silk degummed with different methods

Silk fibers, composed of sericin and fibroin, are spun by the silkworm Bombyx mori. Fibroin is the structural protein of silk fiber, whereas sericin is the water-soluble proteinaceous glue that serves to bond the fibers together. Silk degumming is a primary important process, which needs to be carried out uniformly to a sufficient level to get good quality in further processes such as dyeing. The conventional method of sericin removal is degumming with Marseille soap at alkaline pH. Nowadays, in degumming process, citric acid, as organic acid, and ultrasound are generally milder and less aggressive than the action of alkali and perform an efficient cleaning operations that removes sericin from the raw silk. The aim of this paper is to investigate dyeing behavior of silk degummed with ultrasound and citric acid. For this purpose, silk fibers were degummed by the classic procedure, and with different concentrations of citric acid (15% and 30%), with and without ultrasound. After degumming, samples were dyed using acid and metal-complex dyes. The efficiency of the process implementation was determined by measuring absorbance of dyebath and the color coordinates of dyed samples. Considering the obtained results, it can be concluded that the degumming of silk fibers with ultrasound and citric acid shows potential for possible industrial application.

silk, degumming, ultrasound, citric acid, dyeing properties

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