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Contemporary Fashion as an Event: The New Media and Body Transformations (CROSBI ID 656595)

Prilog sa skupa u zborniku | izvorni znanstveni rad | međunarodna recenzija

Krpan, Petra Contemporary Fashion as an Event: The New Media and Body Transformations // Fashion & Media: History, Style, Design & Art / Hancock, Joe (ur.). Philadelphia (PA): Drexel University, Philadelphia, SAD, 2017. str. 34-34

Podaci o odgovornosti

Krpan, Petra

engleski

Contemporary Fashion as an Event: The New Media and Body Transformations

In this presentation titled Contemporary Fashion as an Event: The New Media and Body Transformations I will try to establish the necessary interdisciplinary relationship between the field and the notion of contemporary fashion that emerges after the 1980s, new media as new opportunities for the development of the fashion process and events and their significant influence on the understanding of fashion and the articulation of the interdisciplinary fashion studies. In the research and scientific sense this presentation will develop the thesis that contemporary fashion cannot exist without the influence of the media on the body and the fashion object. At the same time it changes the logic of acting in the virtual world by fashion-image appearing on the display of the media screen as the new image, but also in the performative sense as the fashion- body. The work will also show the possibilities of constant transformations of contemporary fashion in the way of representing the body in fashion through the altered role of new media and performing arts. Contemporary fashion appears as the reinterpretation and re- performance of the event in all its most noted actualizations. The body in fashion is nowadays in the centre of the performing action because fashion, especially after the 1990s, represents the intersection of various new media and performative forms. Unlike the traditional approach to fashion as an indicator of social change in contemporary society, this approach deconstructs not only the society, but also the modern understanding of culture. It seems necessary to follow the path of understanding the culture that unites the concepts of identity, communication and the emergent network. Contemporary fashion in analogy with conceptual and performative art at the end of 20th century is determined by corporeality in all its aspects of appearing. Body, however, cannot be understood just as a function or a structure of an immediate human action in a pre-set world anymore, but more as an autonomous event in a network of an image representation. Thus, fashion refers to the visual construction of the body as an event and in this way shows an irreducible lifestyle phenomenon in the spectacle of today's society. With close comparative reference to a range of examples including: Tilda Swinton’s performance in Oliver Staillard’s The Eternity Dress, Croatian performance artist Tajči Čekada, together with the work of Hussein Chalayan, Rick Owens, Viktor & Rolf and Rei Kawakubo’s 1997 collection Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body, this paper will also argue that within performance, fashion gains new meaning and the body can be re-performed in various forms due to new media influence. Fashion in contemporary culture can no longer be perceived as only an image or only a process. Instead, these two hypothesis wind together within the form of fashion performance. This complex field of fashion and performance and their strong impact on body-image and body-process is crucial if we want to understand the chaos of contemporary fashion and its constant re- enactment. Why the media nowadays combine the terms fashion and body into the fashion body? Identification of the fashion language as well as the sign system of fashion is of great importance in the field of research, as we explore the attempt to create a new identity construction, gender/sex questions within fashion, as well as the transition from class-social model to visual semiotics in the postmodern theories of fashion. For these reasons this dissertation will focus on the ambiguity of fashion: on the one hand fashion as visual semiotics, and on the other fashion as the body in the process. Fashion in semiotics appears as a text whose layers have different levels of meaning while in performing in the virtual world fashion appears as the body in an event. Thereat, this epistemological difference suggests the intensified research of the relationship between the text and image, which afer Roland Barthes became crucial since an image in the digital context cannot be decoded anymore simply by using the language as a universal signifier. The event has become a crucial category of the new interpretations of contemporary fashion. It is therefore necessary to show how the semiotic model in the new media has moved from text to screen, from language to code, and how fashion is explored as the new possibility of a physical event in the fashion object.

Moda, mediji, transformacije tijela, događaj

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Podaci o prilogu

34-34.

2017.

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objavljeno

978-1-78320-889-0

Podaci o matičnoj publikaciji

Fashion & Media: History, Style, Design & Art

Hancock, Joe

Philadelphia (PA): Drexel University, Philadelphia, SAD

Podaci o skupu

Fashion and Media

predavanje

12.10.2017-14.10.2017

Philadelphia (PA), Sjedinjene Američke Države

Povezanost rada

Trošak objave rada u otvorenom pristupu

Interdisciplinarne humanističke znanosti