engleski

From the visual to the archival sources – following the traces of the Croatian fashion terminology in Venice in the second half of the 16th century

The second half of the 16th century witnesses a significant rise in editions of the so-called costume books. Focal points of these books are various clothing styles, countries of origin of various garments, social hierarchy and a historical review of precedent clothing fashions. The first editions of these books contain depictions of garments and the countries of their origin ; in editions at the end of the 16th century, these depictions are accompanied by textual descriptions of garments and accessories, which contain information about raw materials, colors and ornaments on the fabrics, as well as the description of the wearer's physical and character traits. This article presents stages in research of a particular garment (schiavonetto) worn by Croatian women throughout the 16th century. In geographical maps of that time, present-day Croatia is marked as a country Schiavona (in Venetian sources, the word Schiavone is a synonym for a Croat). Precisely the term Schiavona will become the basis of etymological derivation for multiple terms in clothing, textile and style nomenclature in use on Venetian territory and beyond. The starting point of the analysis is the depiction titled “Schiavone” by Ferrando Bertelli (1563). This depiction is further compared to the depictions of garments worn by women in Croatia as demonstrated in costume books in the second half of the 16th century, followed by a short description. Basic guidelines of the pictorial analysis of the women's garment will be compared to its descriptions in Latin and Italian languages, as well as in Dalmatian and Venetian archival records. The article will furthermore draw attention to the difficulties in attempts to define the exact meaning of the fashion term in question, semantic changes to the term in the second half of the 16th century, and its adjustment to the Italian market. Multiple functions of this type of women's dress as indicators of status and national identity will also be discussed.

Fashion, clothing artefact, 16th century, Bertelli, Schiavona, Croat

nije evidentirano