engleski

Otomanske svilene tkanine sačuvane na liturgijskom ruhu u Hrvatskoj

When speaking of Ottoman silks used for tailoring liturgical vestments, both roman catholic or orthodox, most authors have frequently stated Sweden, Poland, Hungary, Italy, Bosnia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Greece, Romania and Russia as countries where such items are preserved up to this day. Croatia, however, has always been unrighteously missed out, but mostly due to the fact that few Croatian scholars have so far undertaken a profound and continuous research on historic textiles that are, generally speaking, abundantly preserved on liturgical items in Croatia. If some textiles were to have come into the spotlight during the last couple of decades, in most cases those were Byzantine and West European (Italian and French) medieval and early modern patterned silks. Ottoman textiles were almost entirely left aside. Moreover, almost each of the so far published Ottoman silks (çatmas and kemhas) in Croatian museums or sacral collections has been mistaken for the Italian (Venetian) textile and also erroneously dated. The main goal of this presentation was a thorough and accurate overview of all (fourteen in total) Ottoman silks that have been documented in Croatia so far. The first part of the presentation dealt with the 15th, 16th and 17th century voided and brocaded velvets - çatma kadife (preserved on vestments from Grobnik, Brdo Cirkvensko, Fojnica, Bale, Zdenci and Glogovnica), analysed and compared to well-known, similar examples belonging to European and North American textile collections. Four lampases (kemhas) and a taffeta were discussed in the second part of the presentation. Regarding the analyses of the two valuable sets of vestments in the franciscan convent of St. Mary at Zaostrog, it was argued that one of them – which kemha is traditionally presumed to have belonged to the last Bosnian king Stjepan Tomašević – could not however date to the middle of the 15th century and that it should be dated to the last quarter of the 16th century. The presentation concluded with three silks preserved in the Dubrovnik area. Two of them are lampases (kemhas) from the second half of the 16th century, both preserved on a cope in the convent of Friars Minor. Finally, an intriguing turquoise taffeta with delicate medallions, painted in gold and black, was discussed. Four fragments have secondarily been used as a ground for the ecclesiastic embroidery. Teardrop-shaped medallions bear inscriptions in Arabic nesh script (the Arab word mubarek, meaning ‘blessed’, appears in numerous medallions). According to the colour, the light construction of the silk (taffeta) and the fact that it was decorated by writing in black and painting in gold, four fragments were proposed to be the remains of a sançak (Ottoman military banner).

liturgijsko ruho; baršun s uzorkom (çatma kadife); lampas (kemha); oslikani taft; vojni barjak (sançak)

Sudjelovanje na međunarodnoj konferenciji je ostvareno uz potporu The Pasold Research Fund (u ovo vrijeme pri Sveučilištu Warwick, Coventry, Ujedinjeno Kraljevstvo)