engleski

Analysis of Woven Fabrics for Men's Suit

The paper describes the design and analysis of woven fabrics for manufacturing of men's business suit. Three woven fabrics made of a blend wool/polyester with similar construction parameters and the fourth with an addition of 2% elastane fibers were designed. Physical and mechanical properties as well as the range of objective evaluation using the FAST system (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) including a complex procedure of assessing fabric quality were tested. Although some samples are made of the same raw material and fineness, woven in the same weave, with a slightly different density and different dyes and weight, the tested parameters differ. The plain-weave fabrics with a higher density and weight have a smaller thickness than those woven in twill weave and with a lower density or weight. Surface thickness is greater in the samples with less weight containing single yarn in the warp and weft and a portion of elastane fibers. Released thickness is usually smaller in the samples woven in plain weave than those woven in twill weave, regardless of the elastane in the fabric. Shorter bending length is present if the sample has a portion of elastane, as well as in twill-weave samples in relation to plain-weave samples without elastane. Greater fabric elongation will be present with elastane in the plain-weave fabric. Greater ability of design and dimensional stability can be achieved in plain-weave fabrics in relation to twill-weave.

Woven fabrics; Physical and mechanical fabric properties; Men's suit

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