engleski

Influence of degumming on dyeing properties of silk

Raw silk fibre is obtained by unwinding the cocoons of the silk worm (Bombyx mori) and requires a great deal of handling and processing, which makes it one of the most expensive fibres. Because of the presence of sericin, raw silk is rough, hard, brittle, rugged and without lustre. Silk sericins play an important role in the silk reeling, finishing and weaving process. When silk fibres are finally used for textile products, sericin is mostly removed. After removing sericin, silk becomes the finest natural fibre. Degumming silk is characterized with lustre of pearls on the surface, good brightness with excellent elasticity (45%) while the strength is reduced (30%). Additionally the hand of silk fabrics primarily depends on the quantity of sericin remain on the silk fibroin. The properties of silk fibre, such as handling, lustre and rubbing behaviour greatly depends on sericin residual. The paper presents the influence of degumming on dyeing properties of silk. Silk fibres were degummed by the classic procedure, and with different concentrations of citric acid (15% and 30%). After degumming, samples were dyed using acid and metal-complex dyes. To determine the influence of degumming on dyeing properties of silk, the control samples were defined: raw silk fibre and silk sample treated only in water under the same conditions. The efficiency of the process implementation was investigated by measuring apsorbance of dyebath and determining the colour coordinates of dyed samples The results have shown that the highest dye absorption value was achieved with samples degummed with 30% citric acid that gives the clearest and most saturated colour. Higher dye absorption was achieved with the metal complex dye.

silk; degumming; citric acid; sorption properties; dyeing properties

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