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HPLC and FTIR-ATR spectroscopic investigations of the red dye obtained from a historical textile from Dubrovnik Cathedral and Rector's Palace

The researches has been conducted on historical textiles from Dubrovnik Cathedral and Rector´s Palace, 18 th. centur. It is well worth the fabric of silk damask red color tone, that decorated the pillars of the cathedral (Cathedral), and the decor, which was created canopied bed in the Rector's bedroom, the Cultural History Museum in the Rector's Palace in Dubrovnik. The aim is using non-destructive and micro destructive method of dye analysis. The extraction method was evaluated using 5% formic acid/methanol and after drying extract, additional step was an extraction with methanol / dimethylformamide. After treatment HPCL detection were carried out. Narrowest and sharpest HPLC peak, warf of fibre, at 20, 51 min retention time, presence of alizarine was confirmed, while peaks at 29, 2 min and 32, 2 min confirmed purpurine and pseudopurpurine. Typical for the red color obtained by Madder (Purple Peregrina). The weft fibres additionally having a peak at 15, 94 min, 19 min and 21, 14 min retention time characteristic of cochineal. Also, FTIR-ATR analysis confirms the difference between the warp and weft.

identification of natural dyes; HPLC; FTIR-ATR; madder; cochineal; Dubrovnik

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