engleski

Indentification of red dyes on historic textiles 18 th /19 th century from Dubrovnik (Croatia)

The aim is using non-destructive and micro destructive method of dye analysis on historic textiles from the area of Dubrovnik 18 th /19 th. century. Analytical methods confirmed that the fibres taken from velum are made from silk in red tone color. Two extraction methods were evaluated: the classical methanol / hydrochloric acid extraction and a gently extraction using 5% formic acid in methanol. In both cases, an additional step was an extraction with methanol / dimethylformamide. After treatment UV-VIS, SEM-EDX, FTIR-ATR and HPCL detection were carried out. HPLC peak at 21, 627 min retention time, presence of alizarine was confirmed, while peaks at 29, 183 min and 32, 191 min confirmed purpurine and pseudopurpurine. Moreover, it is known that red hues were obtained using madder (Purpura Peregrina) or sea snails. Also, FTIR– ATR of dyed samples revealed a peak at 1741, 41 nm, which presented >C=O group. It can be confirmed that red coloration on 19th/ 18th century samples was proved to be the result of dyeing by natural dye extracted from madder or Murex Brandaris or M.Trunculus, characteristic for Dubrovik surrounding. UV-VIS spectrophotometric analysis of red colored fibre showed peak at 505 nm for 19th century (madder) and peak at 555 nm for 18th century (sea snails).

historical textile; UV-VIS; SEM-EDX; FTIR-ATR; HPCL; madder; sea snails

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