engleski

Review of Wind-Wave Generation

This paper presents the problem of the growth of ocean waves by wind. The generation by wind is an extremely complex process. It is a difficult problem because it involves the modelling of a turbulent airflow over a surface that varies in space and time. The process consists of the highly nonlinear interaction of two fluids whose densities differ by orders of magnitude. This implies a multi-phenomenological behaviour at the interface. Also, it is difficult to measure growth rates of waves by wind in a direct manner. This paper shows historical development and the state of the art of our knowledge of the growth of ocean waves by wind. The combination of field observation and the theoretical work on the critical layer mechanism has resulted in parameterizations of the wind-input source function that provide good results in operational wave models. Using some simplifying assumptions and measurements we are now able to formulate a basic theory, which applied to the models, provides rather good results.

wind waves, wind-wave generation, numerical model

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