engleski

Designer solutions of weft distortion in striped fabrics

The papir describes problems of the distortion of the weft yarn in the fabric occurring during weaving. The distrotion of the grey fabric can be straightened in finishing treatments when the fabric passes through pairs of rollers with irregular and variable pressure values and fabric elongation in the contact line of the rollers. To stabilize the fabric and to prevent the weft yarn from recovering the original distrotion, a thermal process using steam is carried out simultaneously. In the case of single-colored fabrics the preoblem of distortion is considered to be solved, while in the case of check fabrics with a multicolored warp and/or weft yarn a fault occurs which is manifested in gradual changes in the width of stripes, depending on the type of distortion. The problem occurs at the moment of making a standard cutting pattern of the garment, in which cutting parts are placed in such a way to achieve as low a waste of fabric as possible and to align stripes in joining places. The irregular width of stripes in joining places. The irregular width of stripes as a consequence of straightening the distortion makes it impossible to join cutting parts so that stripes overlap correctly. It is considered a fault and the product is classified as lower quality resulting in financial losses. The paper explores low much a designer can help with his/her conceptual solutions in order to avoid or hide faults. Two cases have been taken into consideration: the first one, when the designer has limitations that the cut is not to be altered, but only several elements and the second one is when the designer has complete freedom.

distortion of the weft yarn; striped fabric; stripe width; joining cutting parts; design

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