engleski

Textile Deformation in the Vicinity of Eyelet Buttonholes Reinforcements

In the field of textile and clothing technologies, fabrics, threads, parts and whole assembled clothes are investigated. Textile products can be characterized as inhomogeneous, anisotropic, nonlinear and extremely flexible. Thus, it makes it difficult to describe their material behaviour and properties by using only mathematical models. During the manufacturing process, two-dimensional fabric shapes must be cut and reconnected during the sewing processes, which forms the final 3D shape of clothing item. Depending of final designed model, clothes often consist of cuts, pockets and slits which cause local structural weakness that must be additionally reinforced. For this purpose, different shape and geometry of reinforcements are used (e.g. rectangular, half circle, radial). Because of very complex loading conditions of textiles during its lifetime, experimental determination of deformation on fabrics, textiles or part of clothes is necessary for further improvements of engineering planning and design of quality fabrics and clothing. For this purpose, in order to measure surface deformation on fabrics and parts of clothing, optical measuring system ARAMIS is applied. In this paper deformation in vicinity of eyelet buttonholes during uniaxial tensile test with constant loading rate will be presented. Based on conducted measurements, the results of deformation which is measured on two cross-sections on samples in 4 phases of loading are obtained. Two types of eyelet buttonhole are investigated: types 2 and 5. Types 2 and 5 are different regarding to the shape of "eye". The type 2 have round shape of "eye" and type 5 have straight cut and on the end radial shape of reinforcement. According to the results eyelet buttonhole type 5 have higher values of all (major, minor, von misses) deformation in all phases of loading in both cross-sections. With this method exact results of deformation with graphical presentation of distribution are obtained and these prove that the method can be applied in investigation of textiles and clothes.

clothing technology; deformation; ARAMIS measuring system; eyelet buttonhole

nije evidentirano