engleski

Influence of Sewing Needle Penetration Force on the Quality of Knitted Garment

Many processing parameters during the process of garment production influence knitted garment quality. The penetration force required of the sewing needle is primarily based on friction occurring between sewing work piece and sewing needle. The highest penetration force of the sewing needle occurs at the moment when the sewing needle penetrates the sewing material. Needle penetration force is one of the most important parameters affecting the quality of seams. Needle penetration forces that are too high causes damaged loops, known as ladders. Before selecting an appropriate needle point, it is necessary to determine sewing needle size because it greatly depends on the sewing thread used. Sewing thread plays an influential role in seam design because it should be stretchable since knitted fabric has elastic properties in the direction of rows and wales. The size of the needle eyelet and thread thickness should be mutually adjusted in order for the thread to pass through the eyelet with as little as friction as possible. Penetration force values were observed in view of the quantity and type of softeners, different sewing needle size and number of layers of the stitched sample of a dyed plain jersey. A measuring instrument for testing penetration forces was designed. A measuring instrument with special sensors was used for determining penetration forces of sewing needle. The data acquired with this instrument was saved on computer with the software “ Nemess 5.0.”

knitwear sewing ; needle penetration force ; damages

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