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Better Sewability of Cotton Knit Fabric Treated with Alkali and Neutal Pectinase


Grancarić, Anamarija; Ujević, Darko; Tarbuk, Anita; Brlobašić Šajatović, Blaženka
Better Sewability of Cotton Knit Fabric Treated with Alkali and Neutal Pectinase // Monograph - Innovative Materials & Technologies in Made-up Textile Articles and Footwear / Frydrych, Iwona ; Pawlowa, Maria (ur.).
Lodz: Technical University of Lodz, Faculty of Material Technologies and Textile Design, 2008. str. 98-103


Naslov
Better Sewability of Cotton Knit Fabric Treated with Alkali and Neutal Pectinase

Autori
Grancarić, Anamarija ; Ujević, Darko ; Tarbuk, Anita ; Brlobašić Šajatović, Blaženka

Vrsta, podvrsta i kategorija rada
Poglavlja u knjigama, znanstveni

Knjiga
Monograph - Innovative Materials & Technologies in Made-up Textile Articles and Footwear

Urednik/ci
Frydrych, Iwona ; Pawlowa, Maria

Izdavač
Technical University of Lodz, Faculty of Material Technologies and Textile Design

Grad
Lodz

Godina
2008

Raspon stranica
98-103

ISBN
978-83-7283-265-8

Ključne riječi
Cotton knit fabric, bioscouring, sewability, needle penetration force, wicking, and whiteness

Sažetak
Fabric sewability is the ability of fabric to be sewn without causing sewing problem. Sawing damage is one of the most common sawing problems which trouble the textile and clothing industries. It is attributed to fabric properties, sawing conditions and mishandling. The selection of sewing needle, fineness of sewing thread, relative air humidity, thickness and density of knitted fabric as well as fabric pretreatment and finishing play a significant role in the technological process of sewing. It is well known that raw cotton is highly hydrophobic. Standard procedures for cotton scouring involve alkali treatment, usually with NaOH, accomplishing high effects in textile cleaning of genetic and added impurities. It results in hydrophilic, but also partially damaged cotton with high weight loss, decreased strength and degree of polymerization, what leads to lower fabric sewability. This traditionally procedure of scouring is ecologically and economically unfavorable, therefore in last few years new procedures of enzymatic scouring with pectinases were investigated. Compared with alkali scouring, enzymatic scouring (bioscouring) needs less energy, half of the amount of necessary water, and there is no pollution of waste water because enzymes are biodegradable and non toxic. In this paper raw cotton knitted fabric was scoured in three different ways – traditionally with alkali, and enzymatic with two pectinase - BioPrep 3000L (Novozymes), alkali one and Beisol PRO (Bezema), neutral one. It was prebleached, bleached optically bleached and softened. The influence of these treatments to cotton fabric properties such are hydrophility (drop test method), strength and degree of polymerization (DP), as well as fabric whiteness were compared. Damage of knitted fabric loops during sewing through two, three and four plies, which are closely connected with the values of sewing needle penetration force and dynamic tension of the sewing thread, were measured on new developed instrument which detects faults in samples of the knitted fabric by means of sensors.

Izvorni jezik
Engleski

Znanstvena područja
Tekstilna tehnologija



POVEZANOST RADA


Projekt / tema
117-1171879-1887 - Antropometrijska mjerenja i prilagodba sustava veličina odjeće (Darko Ujević, )
117-1252971-1367 - Međupovršinske pojave aktivnih multifunkcijskih tekstilnih materijala (Anamarija Grancarić, )

Ustanove
Tekstilno-tehnološki fakultet, Zagreb