engleski

COSMETOTEXTILES - CARRIERS OF ACTIVE NATURAL SUBSTANCES TO THE SKIN

The main goal of this thesis was to determine the methodology best suited for the quantification of active substances on cosmetic textiles, before and after their release in washing cycles. Prior to development of methodology for quantifying active substances on cosmetotextiles, it was necessary to synthesise microcapsules. Active substances, α- tocopherol and immortelle essential oil were selected and three different types of microcapsules were synthesised (containing α-tocopherol, immortelle essential oil and mixture of α-tocopherol and immortelle essential oil). The synthesis was optimised and the best amount of active substance and ethyl cellulose, which plays the role of a membrane in the synthesised microcapsules, in rate 1:3, (oil: ethyl cellulose) was selected for further investigations. Both, α-tocopherol and immortelle essential oil are very sensitive to external influences and encapsulation was a logical choice to prevent their decomposition, i.e. premature evaporation during and after the application to textiles. The synthesised microcapsules were analysed gravimetrically and microscopically to determine their morphology and to detect the presence of oil in the microcapsules. Antioxidant analysis was performed and demonstrated using Electron Spin Resonance (ESR) technique. As expected, α-tocopherol showed very strong antioxidant activity, but immortelle essential oil as an active substance showed significant antioxidant potential as well. Microcapsules containing α-tocopherol and the ones containing immortelle essential oil were selected for application to textiles. Cotton fabric was selected as a potential cosmetotextile due to its natural origin, hydrophilic and pleasant characteristics in contact with the skin. Studies were also conducted on other textile materials (e.g. PES/cotton, silk, modal and liocel). Three different applications methods were carried out: impregnation, exhaustion and electrospinning. Exhaustion method has proven to be the most acceptable, as it allowed a uniform binding of the microcapsules to the textiles under controlled conditions of temperature, time and concentration of the chemicals, which was not the case with impregnation and electrospinning. SEM confirmed the presence and unchanged morphology of the microcapsules after application to textiles, while HPLC qualitatively and quantitatively confirmed the presence of α-tocopherol on textiles. UV spectrophotometry confirmed qualitatively and quantitatively presence of immortelle essential oil on the treated textiles and the antioxidant content of the cosmetotextile containing microcapsules with α-tocopherol and immortelle essential oil. Remission spectrophotometry was used to analyse the whiteness before and after processing the textiles. The results revealed unsignificant change in the whiteness of the material after processing with microcapsules. Additionally, the presence of α- tocopherol on the treated textile was qualitatively confirmed by the drop test through a simple visual determination of colour change. Application of microcapsules containing 8 % (by weight of the material) has not achieved antibacterial and bactericidal properties in tests with cosmetotextile containing essential oil during testing with: Klebsiella pneumoniae (KP), Acinetobacter baumannii (AB) and Staphylococcus aureus, although immortelle has an antibacterial effect according to the literature. The dermatological test (Patch test) was performed on 50 subjects and all patients were negative for the tested textile samples. Since the tested patients were most likely to have sensitised skin, we could conclude that the tested textiles are hypoallergenic. The textiles treated with microcapsules were subjected to a test for fastness to washing, rubbing and light to determine the binding of the microcapsules as well as their release during the usage. The cosmetotextile containing microcapsules of essential oil were found to have good light resistance (55.74 % of the active substance was still present on the cosmetotextile after the test), but they were not wash-resistant, as no essential oil could be detected on the textiles after 10 washing cycles. The obtained rubbing fastness results showed that the oil was gradually released when rubbed on the skin, which was a necessary precondition to classify prototype as a cosmetotextile. Cosmetotextiles prototype containing microcapsules of ethyl cellulose and immortelle essential oil developed within the thesis can be used for clothing in close contact with the skin.

α-tocopherol ; immortelle essential oil ; microcapsules ; cosmetotextiles

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