engleski

The Influence of Yarn Fineness in Layer Interchanging Double Cloth on Woven Fabric Roughness

All woven fabric surfaces consist of various types of imperfections and irregularities that are affected by the construction characteristics of the fabric, mostly weave and yarn fineness. Tactile property is a multidimensional concept consisting of several characteristics, among which is surface roughness, as the fundamental and most effective factor whose parameters along with the parameters of surface waviness describe the topographic woven fabric properties. Fabric topography is expressed by periodic repetition of waves in the vertical and horizontal directions caused by its structure. Surface roughness is the totality of microgeometric irregularities on the fabric surface and has a significant role in the final use of fabrics, especially in ones that are in contact with human skin. In order to establish the connection between fabric construction parameters and their roughness, it is sufficient to describe its surface properties at the meso level. For the purpose of this research, woven fabric with complex weave construction (layer interchanging double cloth) was designed, using different raw material fibers (AR - 95% Meta Aramid Conex NEO ; 5% Para Aramid Twaron raw and MAC/CO - 45% Cotton Long Stapel Combed, 55% Modacrylic Sevel FRSA/L), which will provide a diversity of structure and thus various properties on the front and backside of the fabric. For this reason, an investigation on the properties of roughness has been conducted on the backside of woven fabrics, where MAC/CO yarn predominates with the purpose to obtain fabric comfort when in contact with the skin. Figure 1 shows a correlation between the average amplitude from the roughness profile with yarn fineness and fabric density. The mean amplitude of roughness profile, in weft, direction decreases with increasing yarn fineness in weft in the first three samples where the differences in weft density are negligible. The sample with the finest weft (Sample 4, 12.5x2 tex) has higher values of mean amplitude in weft, which is caused by the increased weft density (66 threads/cm), while the other samples had a slight difference in weft density (58 threads/cm). Regarding the mean amplitude for warp, whose density is the same for all samples, the values decrease nonlinearly with increasing weft fineness. Statistical analysis confirmed that weft fineness has the greatest influence on the average wavelength and amplitude of the roughness profile (both R2 = 0.91), in warp direction.

woven fabric, roughness, Fabric Touch Tester, layer interchanging double cloth, yarn fineness

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