engleski

Costume driven explorations in contemporary Croatian performing arts

The paper aims to present several artistic models of costumographic explorations in the contemporary Croatian theatre from 1990 till today, providing context for the more in-depth study of costume designer and multimedia artist Ivana Bakal who experimented with costume as object, installation and performance. The paper is therefore organized in two parts. In the introductory part theatre scholar Martina Petranović analyses several prominent artistic explorations of the potentials of costume as an active performing agent and central element of thinking, initiating, organizing, devising and shaping the production and generating meanings of performance with its content, form, material and performative drive. The examples include various individual approaches to costume, such as: costume driven performances (including the intervention in the performer’s body) often aimed at questioning various types of individual and collective identities, stereotypes and social roles, and at costume- based activism (Vlasta Delimar, Ivana Popović, Tajči Čekada) ; the significance and metamorphoses of costume in visually oriented theatre productions liberated from the dominance and ideology of text and obscuring or redefining the borders between the performer, set design, costume design, puppet and object (Kruna Tarle) ; the signifying energy of costume as catalyst for the narrative of the performance and the performers response to costume in dance productions (Ika Škomrlj, Llinkt!) ; productions in which broader understandings of costume reshape mainstream theatre approaches and traditional text/actor/body/costume relationships (meat costume, paint costume). In the second part of the paper Martina Petranović and costume designer and multimedia artist Ivana Bakal discuss Bakal’s artistic explorations of costume beyond her classic theatre costume designs, from her involvement in the productions of multimedia platform Shadow Casters to her research of the nature and role of costume in non-theatrical and gallery spaces in the form of costume exhibition made out of alternative materials or cast off objects, multimedia projects exploring the process of costume making and activating the audience in perceiving and understanding costume in frame of fine arts or theatre or both, and costume driven performances in which the performance is initiated by, based in and organized around the costume design. / U Oslu (Norveška) je od 21.-23. kolovoza održana međunarodna video konferencija Critical costume 2020 pod naslovom Costume agency u organizaciji Oslo National Academy of the Arts i u suradnji s Prague Academy of the Arts i Academy of Design & Craft University of Gothenburg. Na konferenciji su iz Hrvatske sudjelovale dr. sc. Martina Petranović i doc. dr. art. Ivana Bakal sa znanstveno- umjetničkim radom naslova Costume driven explorations in contemporary Croatian performing arts. Svi radovi su trajno dostupni na mrežnim stranicama konferencije https://costumeagency.com/critical-costume- 2020-conference/ Konferencija je zbog pandemije COVID-a 19 održana u obliku video konferencije i online panel diskusija.

costume design, theatre costume, performing art

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