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Glycerolic Licorice Extracts as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Extraction Optimization, Chemical Characterization, and Biological Activity

A green ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) method using glycerol/water mixtures for extraction of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) bioactive constituents was developed in this study. The response surface method, according to the Box-Behnken design, was employed to optimize the extraction parameters: glycerol concentration (X1), temperature (X2), and the amount of herbal drug used in the production (X3). The responses were content of total phenols (TP), TP extraction efficiency (TPy) and the content of licorice characteristic constituents, glabridin (Gla) and isoliquiritigenin (Iso). Response surface analysis predicted the optimal extraction conditions for maximized amounts of TP, Tpy, Gla, and Iso. The extracts were prepared using the calculated conditions. The analysis of the selected constituents confirmed the validity of the model. Furthermore, biological activity of the extracts was tested. The results demonstrate that UAE using glycerol is a fast and efficient method for preparation of extracts with excellent radical scavenging, Fe2+ chelating and antioxidant activity. Furthermore, the observed notable tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activity of the extracts, as well as their anti-inflammatory activity, indicate the anti-aging properties of the investigated extracts. The fact that the extracts were prepared using the safe, cosmetically active solvent, glycerol, makes them suitable for direct use in specialized cosmeceutical formulations.

licorice ; anti-inflammatory ; antioxidant ; cosmetic ; elastase inhibitory activity ; green extraction ; tyrosinase inhibitory activity

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