engleski

Women's Fashion in Zagreb, Croatia, 1900-1918

The Zagreb female dress culture before the First World War was marked by the influence of high fashion from abroad, less expensive modes, and with an onset of Orientalist inspired styles. However, the outbreak of the First World War in 1914 generated dramatic changes: a significant development was that foreign fashions were less followed and many of the local fashion houses closed. Additional influences included the absence of the men who were fighting, wartime material shortages, poverty, and a general climate of uncertainty. These factors generated more austere looks, but also a resurgence in domestic sewing, which often used traditional Croatian motifs to express nationalist aspirations for independence. These developments are addressed by utilising evidence from the contemporary Zagreb press and graphics of clothing artefacts to analyse these dress practices.

fashion, Zagreb, First World War, anti-fashion, fashion magazines, crises, Salamon Berger, clothing artefatc

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